Aug312010

Why Captain Cook’s Wife is My Heroine

Mrs Cook's Book of Recipes for Mariners in Distant Seas

Its been a bit chilly for trips in the tinny with a very small person who can’t swim yet so its been a long time between blogs.  Reg returned home on Sunday from his (and once my) annual pilgrimage to the Whitsundays for Hamilton Island Race Week which meant I was left, literally, holding the baby. While he was away I turned to the bookshelf for some light relief and came across a stocking filler from a few years back called “Mrs Cook’s Recipes for Mariners in Distant Seas” by John Dunmore.

The recipes in the book are shared through the eyes of Elizabeth Cook, a remarkable woman who outlived her famous husband as well as (sadly) her six children. Apart from the amusement provided by the quirky recipes (roasted goat, stewed dog and seabirds cooked in a variety of ways), I learned a lot about the life of this unsung hero of the British Empire.

They say behind every good man there is an even greater woman. I thought I was doing it tough for ten days alone with a newborn and a toddler whilst Reg lived it up in Queensland. Elizabeth must have been made of sterner stuff than me, what with Jimmy setting off for months and years at a time, returning home long enough to conceive the next child and then heading off again on his next adventure on the high seas. Furthermore I’m sure it wasn’t the done thing in those days for a wife to keep a record of her accumulated brownie points balance and book in for a trip to the day spa on her husbands return.

She must have loved him a lot to have published a whole chapter of recipes titled “To Welcome Home a Weary Mariner” including yorkshire pudding and roast beef, jugged pigeon, oyster loaves and strawberries as fritters. Reg was dispatched straight to the pizza shop as soon as he’d finished putting the kids to bed!

If you like cooking and maritime history then you’ll enjoy flicking through this gorgeous little book. For Rhubarbs benefit we’ll skip the chapter on “dog stewed and in broth” and leave you with something more palatable to welcome home a weary mariner:

Poor Knight’s Pudding

Mr Cook was partial to this dish, which is easy to make and oft served in our home. When he was sailing off the land of New Zealand he sighted some islands which made him think of this delicacy, which he now sorely missed, being so far away from home, and so he gave them the name of ‘Poor Knights Islands’.

  • Take 4 thick slices of bread
  • 2 eggs
  • A small spoonful of sugar, well crushed
  • A small spoonful of cinnamon, ground
  • 6 or 7 ounces of milk

Beat well the eggs, the milk, the sugar and the cinnamon, all together. Cut the bread into quarters; cutting off the crusts is best. Pour the mixture over the bread, and leave to soak some 3 minutes.

Heat some oil in a pan, ready for frying. Drain the bread and slide carefully into the pan, then fry until golden brown on both sides. Sprinkle over this the sugar and the cinnamon.

Some prefer to use a little sweet white wine instead of the milk. And some may add a little preserve such as strawberry jam to flavour the dish, in that case using it instead of the sugar.

Published by Exisle Publishing and the National Maritime Museum of Australia

Jun282010

Whale Tails from Cape Solander

Willing whale watcher

Whilst still waiting for Jones baby number two to make an appearance, we decided last Thursday to head down to Cape Solander in Kamay Botany Bay National Park to see if we could spot some whales on their migration North. On the way down I had been careful to set expectations with my two and a half year old that we might not see any whales (or dolphins) as they could be “hiding” underneath the water. Luckily I was wrong.

At the Cape we joined a small crowd of others, lucky enough to be free for a spot of ocean gazing on a Thursday afternoon. Unless you can get out in a suitable vessel there is a much smaller window of opportunity to watch the whales from the shore during the winter since on the trip North they travel further inshore to avoid the Eastern Australian Current whereas on the migration South back to the Antarctic they head offshore to take advantage of the favourable current.

There are quite a few spots in Sydney where you can watch from the shore including Long reef and North Head. Cape Solander is a good spot for people who are less mobile as you can drive right up to the lookout spot and gaze out to sea from your car.

The view South

However if you are taking small children it is advisable to have plenty of pairs of hands to supervise as although there is a barrier, it is not childproof and the cliff edge is only about 10 metres from the roadway. If you want to concentrate on the whale spotting you’ll need another adult around to take turns.

Superb Blue Wren or Variegated Wren?

We got out and had a look from the viewing platform where a group of volunteers are camped out counting the whales as they pass. They also were able to tell us that the majority of sightings including the ones we saw were humpbacks and they post the tally on a white board nearby.

We were lucky enough to spot about ten whales in four separate groups and got a good look at them through the binoculars. I even managed to capture a few on camera, but sadly, like my Jibbon Beach dolphins the photos are purely evidence that we were not telling tales!

What a fluke!

What I found particularly interesting was the speed at which each pod was passing us. They certainly had a bit of pace on, keen to reach the warmer waters of Queensland, which I can completely understand!

Even though you don’t get to see these beautiful creatures as clearly as you would from a whale watching vessel, for me the pleasure is in simply seeing enough of a splash to know that they are there, making their annual trip North as they have done for centuries.

Useful Information

Cape Solander is also a good starting point for a number of coastal walks South through Botany Bay National Park and into the Royal. Unfortunately for us the start to the walk had been cordoned off for some reason.

The National Park has a visitor centre which includes a discovery centre as well as an environmental education centre that is used by school groups. The visitor centre has an exhibition that depicts the first meeting between aboriginal people and the crew of the Endeavour as well as some beautiful marine art on display. There is also a small theatre that screens a short film of whale footage in the bay and surrounding coastline as well as recordings of whale songs which Tess was not completely convinced about!

The visitor centre also provides some useful information and pamphlets on whale watching and wildlife in the park, plus a gift shop and kiosk.

Getting There

Cape Solander is about one hour drive South of Sydney CBD. Parking is available at the visitor centre and a shuttle bus runs on weekends to take you to the lookout. There is also parking at the point which was plentiful on a weekday but may be crowded on a weekend.

Google Map

Other popular whale watching spots in NSW

  • Cape Byron
  • Iluka Bluff
  • Angourie Headland
  • Muttonbird Island
  • Smoky Cape
  • Tacking Point
  • Point Perpendicular
  • Seal Rocks Lighthouse
  • Boat Harbour
  • Newcastle Headlands
  • Wybung Head
  • Norah Head
  • Crackneck Lookout
  • The Skillion
  • Coppacabana
  • Gerrin Point
  • Box Head
  • Barrenjoey Head
  • Bilgola Head
  • Long Reef Point
  • North Head
  • Dobroyd Head
  • South Head
  • Bondi’s Ben Buckler
  • Stanwell Tops
  • Jervis Bay
  • Moruya Head
  • Montague Island
  • Eden
  • Boyds Tower
  • Green Cape

Links

Kamay Botany Bay National Park

Wildlife Preservation Society Australia

International Fund for Animal Welfare (Whale pages)

Australian Society of Marine Artists

Jun162010

Capturing a Whiff of Salty Air

This little chap is a long way from his clifftop home in Cornwall

There seems to have been a bit of a theme running in my recent posts about getting outside despite the weather and embracing winter. As the arrival of baby Jones number two fast approaches, accompanied by some serious nesting behaviour I have now had to get my head around the prospect of spending more than a few weeks in the vicinity of home.  

They say our homes are a reflection of our personalities and for me this is about bringing the outdoors in and unleashing the amateur interior stylist in me!

Here are a few quick snapshots of favourite treasures collected on my travels that transport me to the sea when there won’t be a whiff of salt in the air for a while.

Whilst I am closer to home I’ll endeavour to write some more practical posts; look out for “Choosing lifejackets for kids and dogs”, lots of great book reviews and some winter warmers on the recipe front. All being  well we’ll be back on, in or arond the water very soon!

Jun102010

Books on Boats and Things That Float

My Old Man and the Sea...

Whatever it is in life that floats your boat, is there anyone who doesn’t enjoy a couple of hours fossicking about in a book shop, flicking through the pristine pages of books on your favourite topic?

Over the years I have gathered a bit of a collection of nautical books, which when combined with Reg’s collection is the beginnings of a maritime library. When it’s cold, wet and windy outside, and for whatever reason you’re not at sea, what better way to while away the afternoon than with your nose stuck in K Adlard Cole’s classic “Heavy Weather Sailing” or a big colourful coffee table book showcasing the best of Beken of Cowes marine photography? It is for this very reason that Reg refuses to part company with twenty years worth of Yachting World, Australian Sailing and Offshore subscriptions. I have a dream that one day I’ll be able to dedicate an entire room of the house to boat books, a sailor’s drawing room if you like. Yes, I’m a boat book geek.

Step inside...if you have a few hours to spare....

This afternoon, in the absence of such a refuge, I indulged in a couple of hours of blissful arm chair sailing when I popped in to Boat Books in Crows Nest. If you’re a sailor, boater or a fan of anything remotely nautical or of a coastal inclination and you haven’t heard of Boat Books then keep reading.

Established for over thirty years and now with shops in Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, as well as a comprehensive online catalogue, Boat Books is the one stop shop for marine literature, charts and chart software. The thing that strikes you most when you browse through the shelves is the volume and variety of marine related books in stock. Far more than you’d be able to locate at the biggest general book store (5500 items in stock to be precise). Everything from the practicalities of repairing and maintaining diesel engines, mending sails, building wooden boats and plotting a safe course, through to seafood cookery books, marine and naval history, novels, marine photography and poetry, would appear to be available. There is something for everybody and if not I’m sure enquiries could be made to source what you are looking for.

Natural history meets Navy

Boat Books is also an official agent for Australian, British Admiralty, New Zealand and Fijian charts and offers a correcting service for charts you may already have. You can also purchase your digital charts and navigational software here whether for commercial or recreational purposes.

Charts....

A tea towel for the galley?

With titles like “Do Whales Get the Bends?”, “Dinner with the Fishwife” and “If Matthew Flinders Had Wings” it was a miracle I came out empty handed on this occasion. The only thing missing from the Boat Books experience was a nice cup of tea to sip whilst flicking through the pages of my next Christmas, birthday, anniversary present etc. Next time you are stuck for a gift for a boating enthusiast check out the online catalogue. In the meantime the gallery below will give you a flavour of what’s available.  Boat Books will have a stand at the Sydney Boat Show at Darling Harbour where Jessica Watson will be signing copies of her new book: True Spirit.

My trip to the book shop got me thinking about whether there is an absolute all time classic boat book. Perhaps its Joshua Slocum’s Sailing Alone Around the World or Arthur Ransome’s Swallows and Amazons? What’s your all time favourite?

Links

Boat Books Australia

Sydney  International Boat Show

Jun062010

Rain Fairies Work Their Mushroom Magic

Magic Mushrooms

There seemed no end to the rain this week. Today the sun did come out and even though a hectic birthday party circuit put pay to a tinny trip this weekend, I did spot this amazing explosion of fungi bursting from a tree trunk at Gray’s Point when taking Rhubarb down to the point for swim.

I think the tree may have been dead or dying and the fungi visual proof of the rotting wood inside the trunk, boosted by the recent heavy rainfall. Not having an Australian fungi field guide, I turned to the internet to try and identify them and came across a great site with lots of photos. I think they might be “Orange Fan Brackets” or Anthracophyllum archeri,  described by Bill Leithhead as: “Cap to 35 mm, pale orange to bright red, usually reddish-brown. Gills decurrent, shallow and widely spaced, paler colour than cap, duller; maybe adnate to very short lateral stem. Spore print white. Australian forests and woodlands.” Although they may not be orange enough? Are there any fungi folk out there in the blogosphere? 

The aroma of the fungi was almost as impressive as the vision; if I could have identified them as edible they’d have been whipped into my favourite Antonio Carluccio mushroom risotto to warm the cockles!

Jun012010

Bad Weather Always Looks Worse Through a Window

Sunshine on a rainy day

I couldn’t agree more with whoever penned this anonymous anecdote. Despite the fact that I have lately been complaining on the domestic front about the incessant rain we have had in Sydney, we did manage to get out in the tinny between the showers, the Sunday before last. I have been so busy catching up on washing and drying since that I haven’t had time to write about it.

Its also true that kids don’t notice the cold and only care about getting wet when adults make a fuss. I’m also a great believer in going outside and getting cold, just so you can come back in, put the kettle on and get warm again, not to mention the lack of crowds at the boat ramp.

So with all this in mind we rugged up and headed down to Southwest Arm to get out of the house and cure the encroaching cabin fever, armed with a thermos full of Bill Granger’s tomato soup and “healthier” chocolate brownies.

Lucky Dip

Even if you don’t have a tinny I highly recommend embracing the rain and getting out into some native bush to blow away the cobwebs. There will be lots of waterfalls running and the moisture really brings out that unmistakable blend of eucalypt, moss and sandy Sydney soil. If you’re still not convinced here’s a couple of rainy day quotes to coax you into it.

Anyone who says sunshine brings happiness has never danced in the rain.  ~Author Unknown

For the man sound in body and serene of mind there is no such thing as bad weather; every day has its beauty, and storms which whip the blood do but make it pulse more vigorously.  ~George Gissing, “Winter,” The Private Papers of Henry Ryecroft, 1903

I am sure it is a great mistake always to know enough to go in when it rains.  One may keep snug and dry by such knowledge, but one misses a world of loveliness.  ~Adeline Knapp

May232010

Secret Water…Somewhere on the Hawkesbury

Autumn Morning Mist on the Hawkesbury

Where’s your Secret Water? Last weekend we were lucky enough to join some friends at their very own secret water on the Hawkesbury, and because they’d like it to stay that way there will be no Google maps or Navionics charts with this post!

The Hawkesbury is one of the major rivers of the coastal region of New South Wales, a river system that virtually encircles the metropolitan area of Sydney. First explored in 1788, the river was a major transport route for food during the 1800s and as such at various locations along its meandering banks is a treasure chest of settler and convict relics; sandstone buildings made to last and convict built wharves peeping out from under the mangroves and gum trees.

A couple of days sitting by the river, an impromptu long lunch with old friends (accessible only by boat) and a brisk morning walk in the bush, had me dreaming once again of a sea change. An hour from Sydney and a million miles from care.  

Tide on the Bend

The 2004 film the Oyster Farmer was filmed on unrevealed locations along the river, epitomising, as the film did, the draw of living in one of the many boat access only communities dotted along its banks.

The Hawkesbury River is home to Australia’s Last River Boat Postman who delivers mail, milk, groceries and newspapers to isolated homes and hamlets. You can cruise the Hawkesbury with the River Boat Postman as he delivers his goods along with an interesting and knowledgeable commentary of the river and its history. But be careful, because if you do pay the ferryman, like me you will likely be Googling Hawkesbury River Real Estate and calculating travel times to work to secure your very own secret water. I hear the Spencer Village Store is up for sale…..

May182010

Home is the Sailor Home from the Sea

Ella's Pink Lady off Sydney Heads

Over the last few weeks I have found myself reflecting on the much criticised, chronicled and at last congratulated adventures of Jessica Watson, teen solo round the world sailor.

Among the sailing and boating fraternity, opinions have abound on records, racing, technological assistance, mental stamina,  sponsorship and the likelihood of success (defined in a variety of ways). Amongst the wider community there have similarly been differences of opinion on what would motivate parental encouragement of such a potentially risky endeavor.

After absorbing all the commentary and opinion I’ve  come to a number of my own conclusions on what to make of it all.

The first is that Jessica’s voyage has been a triumph for the philosophy that an uncomplicated childhood in which your parents allow you to go on “lots of little adventures” and in which they take a very active role in your education makes for a confident young person with the ability, self belief and resilience to tackle life’s challenges…and to inspire others to do the same.

There are a lot of mean spirited and misinformed armchair adventurers out there who, despite having never been to sea themselves, have some very heated opinions on the topic and lack the usual fuel of justification that is “wasting tax payers money”. If you’ve been offshore in a yacht in anything more than forty knots of breeze in the middle of the night, then you’ll know that no amount of technological assistance or gadgetry can absolutely guarantee you a safe passage home to your loved ones.

My final conclusion, to use the words of Robert Louis Stevenson and so aptly quoted by Jessica’s mum is that “Home is the Sailor, Home from the Sea”. I’m sure there is not a mariner anywhere on land or at sea that would not agree with this and feel glad to hear of a fellow sailor’s safe return to port.

May092010

Hidden Treasure up The Georges River

Treasure Hunting

It often happens that when out and about in the tinny there is more to look at and see than can be covered in one blog post, and I return home with a memory card full of photos and a brain buzzing with inspiration. Thus was the case after we’d spent a couple of hours snapping vintage boats at the Variety Club Putt Putt Regatta back in March.  The smell of two stroke and diesel fumes we’d inhaled after loitering around the regatta course was eventually too much for us so we cranked up the Mercury and went exploring up The Georges River. Georges River is quite different to Port Hacking, deeper, less sandy and I’m told offers a higher likelihood of an encounter with a noah (that’s shark for anyone not familiar with the Aussie slang).

This little jaunt was the perfect example of why sometimes its best to just follow the river and see where it takes you.  We cruised up the river at a refreshing 15 knots, admiring the waterside shacks, boatsheds and jetties, belonging to an array of residences ranging from opulent to “shabby chic”. We didn’t get all the way up the river (an adventure for another day) but grumbling tummies led us to stop in Como where we expected to find perhaps a café or kiosk offering the usual marina style fare of fish and chips, ice cream etc.

Hmmm...GPS not updating fast enough!?

To our surprise we came across an unusual combination of chandlery, granny craft and Asian cuisine. We pulled up at the Como marina where you can hire tinnies for the day and browsed around the charming chandlery, an outlet providing for all the practical requirements of the small boat owner and fisherman as well as some nauticalia for your home or boatshed such as mobiles and model boats.

Crab nets... a bargain at twice the price!

Nauticalia

Just outside the store was the “Café de Dogge” where your salty sea dog can help himself to a drink and be tied up if necessary. Sadly Rhubarb wasn’t with us to do her own review of the facilities.

Cafe de Dogue

Wandering on we passed a quirky little shop “The Marina Craft Nook”, stocked with beautiful creations from an array of local artists and crafters, seemingly manned by one of their elderly husbands sitting on a deck chair. Beautiful little girls dresses selling for a song that would fetch four times the price in a mosman boutique and knitted tea cosies that tugged at my heart strings saying “pick me”.

Take me home in time for tea!

Marina Craft Nook

We finished the trip with a casual Thai feast enjoyed in the shade of a beautiful garden that belongs to the Thai Rim Nan, a restaurant that resides tastefully in a gorgeous weatherboard heritage cottage at the entrance to the Marina.

The Thai Rim Nam

 Heading home via the boat ramp at Tom Ugly’s bridge where we launched, I had to reconcile myself with the decision not to purchase the pink hobby horse OR the $8 crab net. Much to Chris’ dread I’ll have to go back.

Sorely tempted

Links

Google Map

Tom Ugly’s Boat Ramp

This map shows the marina at Tom Uglys Bridge on the western side of the bridge. We launched the tinny on the eastern side of the bridge which is accessible via a slip road from either side of Princes Highway. The ramp can be a little slippery and easier to launch with two people.

Como Marina Boat Hire

May052010

Grays Point to Jibbon Beach: Autumn Days on Port Hacking

Tinny Track to Jibbon Beach

A clearing fog, steam powered chugger, dolphins splashing off Jibbon beach and little boys fishing from the wharfs dotted along the river bank. Just picture it. Well actually you’ll have to because a combination of wriggling toddler, unsympathetic tinny skipper, technical camera problems and having the agility that comes with being  seven months pregnant meant I hardly captured any of it on camera. By the time we got to Jibbon beach the camera was actually confiscated from me due to the ridiculousness of my predicament and the general angst it was causing on board. Imagine the chaos if Rhubarb had been in attendance?

When we got to Jibbon beach my frustration evapourated. What a stunning spot to pull up for morning tea and a dig around in the sand.

Jibbon Beach

No sooner had we laid eyes on the beach and started assessing how to land, I spotted some activity in the water beyond an anchored dive boat; dolphins! I’ve seen my fair share of dolphins on races and deliveries and the thrill of getting close to them never goes away. This time though the thrill was taken to a level I haven’t experienced before. Sharing the moment with your two year old daughter for the first time and who has so far only seen dolphins in story books, was simply magic. I wish I could have bottled the excitement. Of course the confiscated camera was immediately reclaimed but I’m afraid the shots I managed are, at best, just evidence of what we saw, along with a vast number of snaps of splashes and ripples where dolphins had been.

Spot the fin

And a nose....?

Absolute Proof!

The pod of dolphins soon departed and we headed back toward the beach to attempt to land. However not long after we pulled up we realised that the small surge would actually make landing the tinny a bit tricky with the current capabilities of the crew on board so we set the anchor, cracked open the thermos and put the camera away. A happy hour was then spent soaking up the autumn sun.

Useful information and activities

  • Jibbon beach is part of a number of Royal National Park bush walks and makes a great spot for a picnic a swim or as a stop off on the way to surf Jibbon bombora.
  •  The water is very clear (listed on NSW parks and wildlife as the cleanest beach in Port hacking complying with 100% of bacterial indicators) and so is perfect for snorkeling.
  • On May 15th Parks and Wildlife are running a discovery activity “Jibbon Headland and Rock Engraving”. Join an Aboriginal Discovery ranger and take a leisurely stroll along Jibbon Beach to the rock engravings at Jibbon Point, hear why this site is important to the Aboriginal people. For more info click on the link below.

Getting to Jibbon Beach

  • We took the tinny from Swallow Rock Boat ramp at Grays Point, a distance of about 2.5 nautical miles.  If you’d like the navionics track file please drop me an email. I still haven’t managed to upload the file type to the blog yet!
  • You can drive to Bundeena (about a 1 hour and 15 minute trip from Sydney CBD) and then walk along to the beach from the ferry wharf. There are also numerous bush walking tracks that lead to Bundeena including the Jibbon Beach Loop
  • You can also reach Bundeena by ferry from Cronulla (and Cronulla via train on the Illawarra line)

Useful Links

Google Map of Jibbon Beach

Great Information on walking the Jibbon Loop Track from Wild Walks

Swallow Rock Boat Ramp

Cronulla Ferry Time Table

Jibbon Headland and Rock Engraving Discovery Activity (scroll down)